Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM FLD AF Ultra Wide Zoom Lens for APS-C sized Pentax Digital DSLR Camera Review| Categories | Wide angle |
| Product Code | B003G2A71G |
| Product Rating |  |
| Price | $661.96 |
| Where To Buy | See More Details |
| Customer Review | See More Reviews |
All this is some recommended about Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM FLD AF Ultra Wide Zoom Lens for APS-C sized Pentax Digital DSLR Camera.
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Product Details
- Brand: Sigma
- Model: 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 Pentax
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 3.00" h x
4.20" w x
4.20" l,
1.20 pounds
Features
- A DC series lens designed exclusively for use with smaller chip APS-c or 4/3 cameras
- HSM (Hyper-Sonic Motor) ensures a quiet & high-speed auto focus
- FLD glass elements with performance equal to fluorite glass for compensate for color aberration
- One Aspherical lens and two glass mold elements
- Produces images with exaggerated perspective with its wide angle view from 121.2 Degree
- A DC series lens designed exclusively for use with smaller chip APS-c or 4/3 cameras
- HSM (Hyper-Sonic Motor) ensures a quiet & high-speed auto focus
- FLD glass elements with performance equal to fluorite glass for compensate for color aberration
- One Aspherical lens and two glass mold elements
- Produces images with exaggerated perspective with its wide angle view from 121.2 Degree
Product Description
The Sigma Corporation is pleased to announce the Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM. This is the first ultra wide zoom lens with a minimum focal length of 8mm, designed specifically for APS-C size image sensors. This lens has an equivalent angle of view of a 12-24mm lens when used on digital cameras with an APS-C size image sensor. The wide-angle of view from 121.2 degrees produces striking images with exaggerated perspective, enabling photographers to emphasize the subject. Four FLD (F Low Dispersion) glass elements, which have the performance equal tofluorite glass, compensate for color aberration. One hybrid aspherical lens and two glass mold elements give excellent correction for distortion and astigmatism. Incorporating an inner focusing system, the lens produces high definition images throughout the entire zoom range. The Super Multi-Layer Coating reduces flare and ghosting while superior peripheral brightness ensures high contrast images throughout the entire zoom range. This lens incorporates HSM (Hyper Sonic Motor), ensuring quiet and high speed AF as well as full-time manual focus capability. It has a minimum focusing distance of 9.4 inches throughout the entire zoom range which allows photographers to emphasize the subject by creating exaggerated perspectives. This lens has a compact construction with an overall length of 4.2 inches and a maximum diameter of 2.9 inches. Product Specifications: Lens Construction 15 Elements in 11 Groups Minimum Focusing Distance 9.4in./ 24cm Angle of View 114.5-75.7 degrees Maximum Magnification 1:7.8 Number of blades 7pcs Dimensions Diameter 3.0in?4.2in /75mm?Length 105.7mm Minimum Aperture (Wide) F22 Weight 1/.9.2oz./ 545g
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
95 of 96 people found the following review helpful.
By S. Flask
with a 35mm efl of 12-24mm, APS-C users can no longer complain about not getting wide enough. i'm using this on a canon 7D. here are my impressions:8mm is wide. how wide? 114 degrees wide. how wide is 114 degrees? make an angle with your thumb and index finger that's about 114 degrees, hold it out in front of you and draw imaginary lines continuing out of your finger tips. that's approximately your field of view. you can put your camera on the floor pointing upwards and capture the entire ceiling of a room and part of all four walls. (depending on the size of the room, obviously) you can just about shove everything in front of you into the frame. and that's the catch....you need to ask yourself whether or not you need an 8mm lens. or more specifically, whether you WANT an 8mm lens. at 8mm the frame distorts severely towards the edges. take the wrong shot and your friends nose looks like it's a foot long. tilt the camera just slightly in any direction and all your angles shift dramatically. you have to start putting a lot of consideration into how you compose the image, and because you can fit everything into the frame it becomes a challenge to keep things out of the frame. composition is not easy. if you've never shot ultra wide before, be prepared for a lot of lousy learning curve shots.these caveats are, of course, exactly what makes this lens fun and rewarding. if you learn how to use it, you'll get some really unique results.a few other notes and thoughts that may help you decide if you need this lens:- image quality is very nice. i'm not one of these blow it up to 100% and look at photos of charts all day people, so if you're looking for that type of information i can't help you. but as far as i'm concerned the image quality is very good. there's plenty of distortion on the wide end, as i already mentioned, so know you'll have to contend with that. but i wouldn't call that an image quality problem at this focal length.- build quality is good. it's not L lens good, but i'd say it's better than non-L canon lens build. i would have liked a little moisture & dust sealing though. i would have loved it, actually. oh well.- no filters, protective or otherwise. this has been stated in other reviews, but it's worth repeating. if you're rough on your equipment, consider that you can't keep the front element of this lens under a protective UV filter. the metal petals offer some protection, and zoomed to 16mm the element retracts a bit further into the body of the lens, but it's still more vulnerable than other lenses. can't really complain about this... i doubt sigma made this lens this way so you'd break it. i'm sure it was necessary to get to 8mm.- nice, quick auto focus on the 7d. even in lower light. can't complain at all.- no issues using it with a speedlite.- if you don't REALLY need 8mm, consider other options. especially if you're tight on cash. 10mm is still pretty darn wide. i promise, it really is. you can get a sigma 10-20mm for significantly less money, so if you don't need that last 2mm, consider your options.- it's pretty slow at 4.5-5.6. whatever. i crank my iso to 3200 if necessary. or just use the speedlite. if you do a ton of low light shooting without flash, i'd take a serious look at the tokina 11-16 f2.8. of course you sacrifice 3mm on the wide end. again, ask yourself what you need most and sacrifice accordingly.- it comes with a $5 padded pouch to store it in. i mention this not as a real plus to sigma, but as a jab at canon who can't throw us a fifty cent plastic hood. (sorry!) the case is a perfect fit for my 24-105, so when this lens is on the camera the 24-105 is in the bag.so, do you buy this lens? if you're willing to work at your composition, don't need a really fast lens and REALLY need the widest lens without going fisheye, then yes, you buy it. it's a very nice piece of equipment. but if you don't really NEED 8mm - if you can live with 10mm or 11mm, if you are short on cash, if you need a fast lens or you're positive you're gonna smack the front of this baby against a rock on day one - then consider the other sigma and tokina alternatives. nobody's making the "perfect" ultra wide right now... you've gotta sacrifice something, whether it be focal length, aperture, filters... whatever. decide what you truly need most and least, and pick accordingly.don't spend too much time thinking, though. go take some pictures!Edit 6/6/11 - A couple of thoughts after using this lens a bit longer:First, the IQ really is nice. Pictures are sharp, with lots of color and contrast. I am not sure what type of coating they may have on the front element, but there's something different about it. When I photograph the sky it almost has a polarizing effect, but it's *not* polarizing because if I point it at something like a car window it doesn't remove the reflection. Anyways, whatever it is, I like it.Another reviewer mentioned that the lens seemed to under-expose. I was getting similar results, but for the life of me I couldn't figure out what was causing it. I'd get random shots that were very under exposed, but they occurred in all types of conditions with no rhyme or reason. Then it clicked: Because of the ability of this lens to produce strange (maybe unique is a better word) results, I was often holding the camera away from my face to stick it in places my face couldn't go. (This doesn't sound good!) For instance, sometimes you take a picture over the side of a building, but with this lens you find yourself wanting to practically hang the camera off the edge in order to create a shot where the perspective is even more dizzying. What was happening during all this wacky hand holding was that light was entering the camera through the viewfinder (which wasn't at my eye) and this was throwing off the light meter. This lens seems more prone to being thrown off by stray light than most of my other lenses. The solution? Either set the camera to Manual, or put the little black rubber piece on your camera strap over the viewfinder before shoving the whole thing in the freezer/refrigerator/engine compartment/owl's nest/whatever other place you can think of to create weird perspectives.Cool lens. It won't spend a TON of time on your camera, but when it does it will challenge you, and certainly allow for unique results.
103 of 110 people found the following review helpful.
By Chris Newman
I am going to give my opinion comparing the Sigma 8 - 16mm to the Sigma 10 - 20mm lens and not to other manufactures WA lenes.I take around 200,000 pictures a year with the Sigma 10 - 20mm lens. The lens has held up well, feels solid and in my opinion works well with little chromatic aberrations. My only real issue with the 10 - 20 was when taking photos of dark home interiors (which is what I do) and there is a very bright window in the image then sometimes a blue flare appears just off center in the image. This can be reduced by, say 90% in Photoshop. It does not happen every time but when it does even moving to a slightly different shooting position often does not eliminate the problem. The blue flare seems to be not the same problem one might expect to see outdoors shooting in bright sunlight where flare spots can run diagonally through the picture, but then maybe it is the same type of flare. Also by even adding a "thin" filter it can cause some vignetting. The filter issue is forgivable on such a wide angle lens. One last point, there is some slight curvature noticable on verticals close to the sides of the frame.So to the Sigma 8 - 16mm. I think it's very well made and feels good and solid right out of the box. I was thinking "20% wider" but forgot also 20% taller in image coverage. It is noticable different in angle of view from the 10 - 20mm. Because of the bulbus front element forget about ever adding a filter. Some WA lenes (fisheyes) allow fitting a filter in the rear of the lens. Forgive me but I have not looked to see if this lens allows that. The front of the lens has a fixed petal lens shade that allows the lens cap to slide/push over it and creating a nice tight fit. The lens cap is in two parts for reasons someone else will have to explain.The lens has a maximium f4.5 - f5.6 aperture, a little slow but of no importance for most users of a lens this wide and for 99% of the uses it will be put to.I have taken about 2,000 pictures with my 8 - 16mm and think it is probably slightly better in all aspects than the 10 - 20mm lens, but read the guys who put this lens through lab tests, my tests are in the field and based on what my eyes can see rather than what instruments can measure.It is a harder lens to use than the Sigma 10 - 20mm. Tilting just slightly will cause verticuls to tilt (thank you Photoshop). I have noticed the blue flare less with this lens than the 10 - 20mm. I think it may be there but spread over a bigger area and less strong and maybe less common. Some flare is to be expected with all super wides. Curviture at the frame edges seems about the same as the 10 - 20mm - which I consider good - again for a super wide.So which is the better choice. That is a difficult question to answer - it depends. The 8 - 16mm is about $200 more - but is noticable wider. It you need to squeese every inch from a picture then the 8 - 16 is your choice. If price is a concern or landscape is your interest I am sure the 10 - 20 would suffice. However if money is no object then get the 8 - 16mm and then go out and learn to use it. Believe me there is a learning process.Update Dec 2012After more than 150,000 pics with this lens (yes the D300 burnt out its mirror and shutter once again - about $400 if you're wondering) I really do like this lens more than ever. I use it for interiors and set it now to manual, at f11 with the focus set at the start of the infinity mark. Saves the lens "hunting" on room interiors - just speeds things up and with HDR don't want different focal points. Everything seems to be in focus from a foot to infinity at those settings but not the setting Sigma suggested to me over the phone. Flare is quite well managed outside with the sun directly in the picture, or if it is just outside the frame I then hold my hand a foot or two above the lens. Of course you can't use a filter to protect the bulbus front element but I have never damaged a lens in 35 years of pro or semi pro photography and never used a filter just for protection. They do increase the chances of flare. I DO always replace the lens cap after use and avoid cleaning as much as possible - other than a blower. I still keep my 10 - 20mm Sigma with a 10X ND filter attached to allow for slow 3 minute exposures - can't do that with the 8 - 16. Now just ordered the Sigma 4.5mm fisheye to add to the Nikkor 10.5 fisheye. As you might guess I'm hooked on "wide".
48 of 50 people found the following review helpful.
By E. J Tastad
Overall the Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-f/5.6 is an excellent lens, but not being able to accept filters will be a turn off for some people. However, the advent of HDR and exposure fusion, external filters are less necessary. I find I get better results using bracketed exposures, but this is more work in post processing that not everyone is going to want to do.Strengths - Ultra wide field of view - Architecture (14-16mm) - Landscapes/Cityscapes - Build Quality - Quiet and Smooth FocusWeaknesses - No lens filters - Architecture (8-12mm without correction) - Extreme corners are soft - Focal lengths less than 10mm aren't recognized by camera (Pentax specific) - Slow focus in Live View (Pentax specific)This lens offers a superbly corrected 13-16mm f/5.6, or an extremely wide field of view at focal lengths wider than that, but will start showing barrel distortion and corner softness. It is definitely a good wide angle lens, offering and extremely wide field of view. Nearly every shot I took in my walk was at 8mm. I imagine after some of the newness wears off I would use the other focal lengths more, as 8mm is bordering on too wide for a rectilinear lens. I honestly would not see a point in going wider than that, as at 8mm perspective distortion can become extremely distracting for some subjects near the edge of the frame (especially people). CA is well controlled at all focal lengths and apertures, but is sometimes visible at extreme corners and at certain apertures (worst is about 1.5 pixels on my 14.6 MP camera) The Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 remains an affordable alternative, and can still use filters.I do recommend this lens if you are looking for an ultra wide. It offers a lot over the alternatives, even the camera manufacturers own wide angles.
Available now at cheap price, promo discounts and easy shipping. I'm very satisfied with their features and highly recommend it to someone hunting for a quality product with the newest features at an cheap. You can read testimony from buyers to find out more from their experience. Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM FLD AF Ultra Wide Zoom Lens for APS-C sized Pentax Digital DSLR Camera has worked beneficial for me and I believe it would do wonders on you too. So why spend any more time? Have Fun, you understand where you can purchase the best ones.
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